I am not a travel writer, but if I were, I would talk about the three
reasons to hurry up and visit before the floodgates open and the rest of
America shows up.
reasons to hurry up and visit before the floodgates open and the rest of
America shows up.
#1. Getting that Cuba stamp on your passport. (If you choose)
#2. All the old cars.
#3. The people!
#2. All the old cars.
#3. The people!
Oh wait, there is a #4. The chocolate!!!
Traveling to Cuba is like getting to take a bite of forbidden fruit. As
Americans, we have been told for the past 50 years that going to Cuba is
a major no-no. Alas, as an entitled American, I don't like being told
what and where I can and can't go. However, the threat of losing my
travel privileges wasn't worth the risk. Recently the US
government has been looking the other way regarding Americans traveling
to Cuba. This November I took the classic roundabout route from Cancun
to Havana. On the short flight over, I was a little nervous of the
unexpected. When it came to my turn at customs, the official just
stamped away! Boom—it's in the passport and it's official.
My impetus for the trip was a photography workshop (along with my mom!) and I have to
admit that my knowledge of the country’s past wasn’t thorough, besides what I
remembered of Hemingway and his book Old Man & The Sea, the sinking
of the USS Maine, Fidel and of course, the scene in Captain Ron when
they rescue the sailboat from the Cuban pirates. What I did know,
however, was that there would be lots of vintage cars from the ‘40s and
‘50s.
Americans, we have been told for the past 50 years that going to Cuba is
a major no-no. Alas, as an entitled American, I don't like being told
what and where I can and can't go. However, the threat of losing my
travel privileges wasn't worth the risk. Recently the US
government has been looking the other way regarding Americans traveling
to Cuba. This November I took the classic roundabout route from Cancun
to Havana. On the short flight over, I was a little nervous of the
unexpected. When it came to my turn at customs, the official just
stamped away! Boom—it's in the passport and it's official.
My impetus for the trip was a photography workshop (along with my mom!) and I have to
admit that my knowledge of the country’s past wasn’t thorough, besides what I
remembered of Hemingway and his book Old Man & The Sea, the sinking
of the USS Maine, Fidel and of course, the scene in Captain Ron when
they rescue the sailboat from the Cuban pirates. What I did know,
however, was that there would be lots of vintage cars from the ‘40s and
‘50s.
As a photographer, old cars are one of my favorite things
to shoot, and sure enough, in Cuba they did not disappoint. It was
like stepping back in time or being on a movie set. The first night I
just sat on the stoop in front of where we were staying and watched old
cars come flying down the hill. The next morning, I had a field day
standing on the corner, shooting pictures of vintage Chevys, Fords,
Oldsmobiles, Buicks & Studebakers. I would say over 80% of the cars
in Cuba are pre 1960's. When we decided to travel outside of Havana we
hired a driver with a ‘58 Ford Fairlane. Our driver let me drive! Then
he let my mother drive! He was proud of his car—it had been in his
family since before the start of the embargo. He told us in very broken
English that they to had replaced the original motor with a Toyota
motor. Basically, because of the U.S. embargo, most cars are like the
Johnny Cash song " One Piece at A Time." I worry about what will happen
when they open up Cuba to the U.S. car manufacturers and car
collectors. If Cuba loses their old cars, then they will lose much of
the mystic element that sets them apart from other Latin American
countries. It was bad enough having crappy Japanese cars photobombing
my old car pics!
to shoot, and sure enough, in Cuba they did not disappoint. It was
like stepping back in time or being on a movie set. The first night I
just sat on the stoop in front of where we were staying and watched old
cars come flying down the hill. The next morning, I had a field day
standing on the corner, shooting pictures of vintage Chevys, Fords,
Oldsmobiles, Buicks & Studebakers. I would say over 80% of the cars
in Cuba are pre 1960's. When we decided to travel outside of Havana we
hired a driver with a ‘58 Ford Fairlane. Our driver let me drive! Then
he let my mother drive! He was proud of his car—it had been in his
family since before the start of the embargo. He told us in very broken
English that they to had replaced the original motor with a Toyota
motor. Basically, because of the U.S. embargo, most cars are like the
Johnny Cash song " One Piece at A Time." I worry about what will happen
when they open up Cuba to the U.S. car manufacturers and car
collectors. If Cuba loses their old cars, then they will lose much of
the mystic element that sets them apart from other Latin American
countries. It was bad enough having crappy Japanese cars photobombing
my old car pics!
I have traveled all over Central and South America and have met all sorts of people and
experienced many different Latin cultures. With that diverse backdrop for
perspective, I was blown away by the kindness and friendliness of the Cubans.
They were so excited to meet Americans and were thankful that we had
chosen to come to visit. When they figured out I was from the U.S. they
ALL ask if I was from Miami and were disappointed that I was not. As much fun as I had walking around taking pics of the cars, I had just as much fun meeting and taking pictures of
the people! Cubans are survivors—they are happy and make the most of what they have. And it’s true—they love baseball!
experienced many different Latin cultures. With that diverse backdrop for
perspective, I was blown away by the kindness and friendliness of the Cubans.
They were so excited to meet Americans and were thankful that we had
chosen to come to visit. When they figured out I was from the U.S. they
ALL ask if I was from Miami and were disappointed that I was not. As much fun as I had walking around taking pics of the cars, I had just as much fun meeting and taking pictures of
the people! Cubans are survivors—they are happy and make the most of what they have. And it’s true—they love baseball!
Now, the chocolate. As a chocoholic, my first request at dinner was some kind of
chocolate dessert. While they didn't have cake, they did have ice
cream. This is when I learned about government ice cream. Yes, the
Cuban government controls the supply of ice cream. Ask me what's wrong
with Socialism!
chocolate dessert. While they didn't have cake, they did have ice
cream. This is when I learned about government ice cream. Yes, the
Cuban government controls the supply of ice cream. Ask me what's wrong
with Socialism!
Over the course of visiting several restaurants I got to have both types. Of course, the free
market ice cream (which has only been around for a few years) tasted so much
better. However, when it comes to real chocolate—you know, the melty,
delicious smudge-on-your-face-and-hands chocolate—then you have to visit
the chocolate factory in the heart of old Havana. First, they start
you off with a cold tall glass of chocolate milk. Then you can pick from
a selection of chocolate bears, fish, guitars, etc... I've been all
over the world and I've never had chocolate this good!!!
market ice cream (which has only been around for a few years) tasted so much
better. However, when it comes to real chocolate—you know, the melty,
delicious smudge-on-your-face-and-hands chocolate—then you have to visit
the chocolate factory in the heart of old Havana. First, they start
you off with a cold tall glass of chocolate milk. Then you can pick from
a selection of chocolate bears, fish, guitars, etc... I've been all
over the world and I've never had chocolate this good!!!
What is pleasantly noticeable was the lack of commercialism once you get
outside of Havana. A few years ago, the government began encouraging
the people of Cuba to start their own businesses. The Cubans took this
as a challenge, and small businesses have started to pop up everywhere.
It is interesting to try and figure out what businesses are government
and which ones are businesses of the people. It pains me to think that
the McDonalds, Burger King and their ilk are frothing at the mouth to
end these budding entrepreneurs that are rising up amongst the Cuban
people.
outside of Havana. A few years ago, the government began encouraging
the people of Cuba to start their own businesses. The Cubans took this
as a challenge, and small businesses have started to pop up everywhere.
It is interesting to try and figure out what businesses are government
and which ones are businesses of the people. It pains me to think that
the McDonalds, Burger King and their ilk are frothing at the mouth to
end these budding entrepreneurs that are rising up amongst the Cuban
people.
In closing, a few notes: Cuba's infrastructure is not set
up to handle a mass influx of people. If you like to travel in style,
then find a hotel and hire a driver with a classic car. If you’re on a
budget, you will have to stay in "case particulars." Basically, these
are Airbnb-type rentals without the benefit of the internet to book and
leave reviews. You can take beat-up vintage cabs around the city and
take the bus or do ride shares outside of Havana. The more Spanish you
speak, the more exciting things you will get to do. Oh, and bring
Euro's. They charge a 10% tax when you change over American dollars.
up to handle a mass influx of people. If you like to travel in style,
then find a hotel and hire a driver with a classic car. If you’re on a
budget, you will have to stay in "case particulars." Basically, these
are Airbnb-type rentals without the benefit of the internet to book and
leave reviews. You can take beat-up vintage cabs around the city and
take the bus or do ride shares outside of Havana. The more Spanish you
speak, the more exciting things you will get to do. Oh, and bring
Euro's. They charge a 10% tax when you change over American dollars.
The bottom line is...go to Cuba! Get that elusive passport stamp, go back
in time with all the old cars, meet the people and let the amazing
chocolate melt on your fingers and in your heart!
in time with all the old cars, meet the people and let the amazing
chocolate melt on your fingers and in your heart!
